Chose Your Own Adventure(s) on Ocracoke Island

By Jason Frye

As a kid, I loved reading Chose Your Own Adventure books; I think that’s why I love Ocracoke Island so much as an adult. In those books I was more than a reader, I was the hero at the heart of the story or the sleuth solving the mystery. When I’m on Ocracoke Island, every day’s an adventure and I can fill it however I want, becoming a mate on a pirate ship, an explorer kayaking marsh creeks, or a treasure hunter drawing close to the “X” on the map. 

Ocracoke fills most visitors with this same sense of adventure, and with dozens of ways to play, frolic, and experience the island, every day becomes whatever you choose. How will you fill your hours here? Whatever part of Ocracoke calls to you, thrills are on the horizon.

The Wild Woods of Ocracoke Island

Ocracoke Island was a haven for pirates in the early 1700s, and one pirate in particular – Blackbeard – came here often. Stories handed down through the generations tell of ship repairs, pirate parties, and even buried treasure. But when you follow trails into Springer’s Point or Hammock Hills are you going to find pirate artifacts, a treasure map, or gold doubloons? Probably not, but you will find beautiful, near pristine forest and trails that could go anywhere your imagination leads.

Springer’s Point Preserve

Located on Loop Road not too far from the Ocracoke Lighthouse, the 122-acre Springer’s Point Preserve gives you a taste of Ocracoke’s woods. A 1.6-mile (round trip) nature trail leads through maritime forest, salt marsh, and wet grassland before it emerges onto a sandy, sound-side beach. Pack your beach gear – chairs, towels, sunscreen, and lunch – and set up on the beach for a swim here a Teach’s Hole. Teach’s Hole is named for Edward Teach, better known as Blackbeard, and this is the site of his final battle.

As you take the nature trail to the beach, you’ll find signage telling about the trees and flowers, and you’ll pass something odd: a pair of grave markers. This is the resting place of Sam Jones and his horse, Ikey D. Sam was a legendary Ocracoke figure and he loved Ikey D so much, he asked to be buried atop the horse. As you know, Ocracoke’s an island and not very tall, so they had to bury the inseparable pair side-by-side.

In addition to a swim in Teach’s Hole and a little sunbathing on the beach, folks come to Springer’s Point with their fishing gear and they search the shoreline for the ideal place to wet a line. There are plenty of shoreside trails that’ll lead you on to secluded spots in Springer’s Point. Oh, and feel free to bring your dog – on leash only, please – when you visit! There are no parking spots at this trail so walk or ride your bike. There is parking available a short distance away at the Ocracoke Assembly of God church or further up the road at the overflow light house parking area.

Hammock Hills Nature Trail

As you drive north along Highway 12, you’ll reach Hammock Hills Nature Trail across the road from the National Park Service’s Ocracoke Campground. Park, apply a bit of bug spray, and head out for a short hike. This 0.75-mile loop takes you through rolling, dune-like hills through a piney forest full of coastal flora and fauna. You’ll see palms, pines, flowering vines and trees, and wildlife as you hike. The occasional rabbit will hop across your path, but you’re more likely to see a squirrel and dozens of bird species (and you may even spot a snake at certain times of year) as you make your way around the loop. About halfway around you’ll find a bench and an outstanding view of the Pamlico Sound and the extensive marsh complex on Ocracoke’s west side. You’re welcome to bring your dogs (on-leash only), just be sure to check their paws for sand spurs.

Spectacular Sandy Shorelines

Ocracoke’s beaches are among the best in the world. Dr. Beach has given our shore the thumbs up numerous times over the years, including calling the Ocracoke Lifeguard Beach his “favorite getaway beach” and ranking it the number one beach in the U.S. in 2022. And I agree. This is a fabulous stretch of shoreline whether you come for the fishing, the surfing, the shelling, the sunbathing, or to go for an offroad drive on the sand, meaning there’s plenty of ways to do the beach right on Ocracoke, but with a few tips you’ll have an even better day at the shore.

A Day at the Beach

There’s a lot of beach on Ocracoke. How much? Well, the island’s about 16 miles long, which translates to just about 16 miles of beach. You can access a bayside beach at Springer’s Point Preserve, but Ocracoke’s beautiful oceanfront beaches are out of town as you go north on Highway 12. 

As you search for your preferred patch of sand, you’ll notice two kinds of beach accesses on Ocracoke Island: parking lots with designated paths or walkways to the beach; and wide, sandy lanes where folks drive 4x4s along the shore. If you want to drive on the shore, you’ll need an ORV (off road vehicle) permit from the National Parks Service (available online only) or you’ll need to rent a beach-ready ride. I’ll tell you about both in just a minute.

The first beach access you’ll find is an ORV access, but go just a little ways more – 1.9 miles from the center of Ocracoke Village – and you’ll find the big parking area and access to Ocracoke’s Lifeguard Beach. It gives a lot of families, swimmers, and surfers some peace of mind to find a lifeguard here, and because of that lifeguard, that big parking lot, the proximity to the Village, and the wide, gorgeous beach, this is a popular spot. But proceed north and you’ll find more accesses along the way. Some stretches of beach are wider than others, some offer better fishing or have a better surf break, but some are ideal because of the solitude or your beachy neighbors. Check out several beach accesses and find your favorite.

Now, if you want to go off road and drive on the sand, you’ll need that ORV permit. They’re available online only, and once you have it in hand (or, rather, on your phone), you’re ready to go. Wait, you’ve never driven on the beach, you brought your car (not your SUV), or you just don’t want to take the family car on the sand? No problem. You can give Beach Ride Rentals a call. They rent Jeeps and SUVs in 3-, 6-, and 12-hour blocks, or for two or more days; rates range from $125-160/3 hours, $185-225/6 hours, $225-285/12 hours, or $185-250/day (two-day minimum) for overnight rentals, depending on vehicle. When available, they also offer a beach drop off (and pick up) for $20/passenger. They handle it all – a little lesson or a refresher on beach driving, permits – and make it easy to go offroading on Ocracoke.

A few beach rules to keep in mind. 

• Pets. Bring your pets, but keep them on a leash and remember to clean up after them. 
• Alcohol. It comes as a surprise to some folks, but you can have alcohol on the beach here, provided you stick with beer and wine (no spirits, distilled liquor, or fortified wine). No open containers are allowed in the vehicle, and DUI laws apply to driving on the beach just like driving on the road, so be responsible. 
• Fires. Beach bonfires are the best, and if you want one on Ocracoke, you can have one, provided you have a permit. The National Parks Service provides free permits, just print it out, sign it, and bring it with you (or have a copy on your phone). The permits are handy because they include all the regulations around beach fires – size, when and where you can have a fire, and other tips – to keep you in-bounds when you light up.
  If you want a fire but you to make it easy on yourself, check out Ocracoke Beach Fires. They’ll set up a private fire for you and your party, or they’ll join in and tell you a few ghost stories and pirate tales, and they’ll even supply snacks and S’mores kits. 
• Camping. If you want to camp on Ocracoke, you can, just not on the beach. The National Parks Service has a campground just 6 miles from the center of the village; it’s a little bare-bones, but it’s open year-round, has 136 spots, and is RV-friendly. Two other campgrounds – Jerniman’s Campground and Teeter’s Campground -are closer to town and offer more in terms of amenities.

And let’s address a rumor about Ocracoke’s beaches. Word on the street is Ocracoke’s got a nude beach or two. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on how you feel about it, there’s no official nude beach on Ocracoke, so if you do dare go bare, it’s at your own risk because Rangers from the National Parks Service make regular patrols of the shore. 

Fish On! (and Hunting Too!)

o’Cockers – as Ocracoke locals call themselves – have made a living as fishing and hunting guides for generations and it’s a way of life that continues today. Turns out, Ocracoke’s a fantastic spot to be a guide. The marshes and shallow waters of the Pamlico Sound to the west are great for fishing and for waterfowl hunting. There are endless offshore fishing spots in the Atlantic Ocean. Surf fishing is always hot on Ocracoke and with all this shoreline you’ll have no problem finding a good spot to cast a line.  

If you’re going to surf fish, you’ll need a Coastal Recreational Fishing License, available online from the North Carolina Division of Marine Fisheries, or in person at Tradewinds Tackle. Pay a visit to Tradewinds Tackle for that license and for gear, fish tales, news on what’s running and what they’re biting; they’re surf fishing experts and really know fishing on Ocracoke like no one else. 

There are a number of fishing guides on Ocracoke, and if you’re going out with one, your license is usually included (check with your guide to be sure). Fishing guides tend to come in two flavors: offshore (that’s ocean fishing) and inshore (in the marshes and sound). For a guided inshore fishing experience, check out Fish Camp Charters, SouthWind Charters, and Ocracoke Sportfishing & Hunting. Offshore fishing has plenty of options, like Cap’n B Fishing Charters, Dream Girl Sport Fishing, and Fish Ocracoke.

Waterfowl hunting is a pretty big deal on Ocracoke. If you’d like to go, you’ll benefit from a local guide who has access to a blind and can put you in the right place for the birds. Ocracoke Sportfishing & Hunting offers guided duck hunts, as does Ocracoke Native Duck Hunting, and Berkley Outdoors. They’ll outfit you with what you need for a successful hunt, including lending you a bit of wisdom that comes from decades of hunting here. 

Shoreside Watersports

Surfers up and down the East Coast know Ocracoke for its consistent swell and the potential for day-long surf sessions, but the Island offers more to do on the water than just hang ten. You can hop on a sailboat, go parasailing, take a sailing lesson, learn to kiteboard or paddleboard or kayak, rent a boat and explore or fish on your own, or head to nearby Portsmouth Island to check out the ghost town and National Seashore there. 

Ride the Wind has long been a favorite for their cool collection of surf- and shore-inspired clothing and their Ocracoke-centric Wococon collection. Wococon is a transliteration of the original, native name for the island and the designs on these hats and shirts are really cool. But Ride the Wind does more than have a nice shirt or two, they also rent bikes and kayaks, and, most importantly, offer surf lessons. 

On Schooner Windfall II, you’re in for a fantastic time at sea. Captain Rob Temple has been sailing since the late ‘70s, and he knows the waters of Ocracoke like few other watermen. The most popular trip on Windfall II is the sunset sailing, and I can say it’s fantastic. Captain Rob goes where the wind allows, and we sailed to Teach’s Hole where he told a few stories about Blackbeard and island history before we all clammed up to watch the sunset. You can charter Windfall II for up to six passengers for daytime or sunset sailings, just contact Captain Rob and get your spots reserved whether it’s a full charter or if you’re simply joining in. 

Kayaking and Standup Paddleboarding

Paddling around Ocracoke on a kayak or atop a standup paddleboard gives you a new look at the island. I joined Ride the Wind Surf Shop for a kayak tour along the marsh and shore near Teach’s Hole and a final paddle through Silver Lake Harbor. It was early in the season, so my guide and I had a long talk that was one part Ride the Wind’s usual eco-tour – focused on the animals, plants, and ecology of Ocracoke – and a bit of island history. We saw osprey and other raptors circling overhead, spotted a number of shorebirds, and heard a kingfisher calling in the first 20 minutes of the paddle and it only got better from there. Navigating through narrow marsh creeks, we saw fish and rays swimming beneath the kayaks, and what seemed like a thousand crabs scuttled around onshore. It’s an amazing way to spend your time on the island, but an even better way to get to know this place. 

Ride the Wind also has paddleboard yoga in Silver Lake, and they rent kayaks and paddleboards. With your own kayak or paddleboard – whether you rent it or bring your own – you’ll find miles of marsh and waterways to paddle. 

Ocracoke, Play Your Way

While you’re on Ocracoke, every day is yours and there’s a hundred ways to fill every hour. But the most fun thing on Ocracoke is you. Come ready to play, ready to explore, and ready to fall in love with your new favorite place.